The Bus

I know I've mentioned the bus more often that I probably should, but, having been born and raised in the suburbs, the bus is an entirely new experience for me. The metro and buses in DC were a lot to handle, and those were pretty chill in retrospect.

Just to give you an idea of the green buses, they do have designated stops. I'm not entirely sure how there were chosen, since they seem to be everywhere from the sides of highways to the edge of an exit ramp. I'm sure there's a reason, I just haven't deciphered it as of yet.

Additionally, the helper on the bus (the guy [or lady, but more often the guy] who collects the bus fare and calls out the destination of the bus) has to run to the machine that marks how many routes they've run. The goal of this is to do it as rapidly as possible, preferably without stopping the bus completely. Most of the time, the driver slows down a lot; but one time, he had barely started to hit the brakes when the helper leaped out of the bus, almost falling flat on his face. However, he was clearly skilled, as he efficiently got the stamp and jumped back onto the bus before we had to actually come to a complete stop as approved by the DMV drive-test-givers.

The other important thing to know is that, although there are designated stops, anywhere can be a stop if you have the balance to get to the front of the bus and the guts to jump off when it slows down enough. Generally, this is more acceptable as a young man, because we would actually have to stop for women, children, and what is referred to as the "third generation" to get off the bus safely. I've started to appreciate the efficiency of certain bus drivers, while developing an impatience for those who stop completely and spend time calling for more passengers.

That being said, I recognize my own complete selfishness in wanting the bus to stop completely for me to get off the bus or for me to get on, preferably not starting again until I am well established in my seat. While my balance has improved incredibly (thanks, core strength), I was not prepared when, today, I was the last one to be getting on the full bus, which started moving when I had barely grabbed the railing and just managed to get one foot on the step. Once the men in front of me moved aside, I was able to actually get securely on the bus, though I had to remain standing for a while until a seat emptied. The ride to Cumbaya is far more of a challenge standing than that to the south of Quito.

I don't know what lesson I learned, but I do know I'll try to be careful. In the meantime, I'll work on my grace and poise (though it's difficult with a last name like mine) on the bus rides.

Hombre?

I went to my internship. A little Ecuadorian girl of about 10 years old asked me my name while I was waiting for a folder. I told her my name.

Then she asked if I was a man.

Sounds of the City

Doors

This seems obviously, but it’s more than just a house door. It’s the gate in front of the apartment door, the bathroom door, the bus doors, the car doors. The doors opening and closing, the sounds of the outdoors mixing with the sounds from inside the house—it makes for a constant flux of movement being heard throughout the day.

Alarms

I’ve pretty much memorized the car alarm pattern from the lot across the street. Nearly every night, at least one of the car alarms is triggered, usually lasting from 2 to 10 minutes.

Dogs

Along with the many domestic dogs, there are also plenty of stray dogs. Although these look healthier than the strays in some places, they still clearly do not receive care. As they roam the street, their barks and howls fill the night air.

Spanish

This one’s a given. I hear Spanish on the bus, at school, in my house, pretty much everywhere. Although I don’t understand everything, I’m getting better at figuring out the context of a conversation.

English

The number of gringos in Quito, particularly at USFQ, means that I hear a lot of English. But it usually throws me off, because I will have been trying to listen to or practice Spanish, and all of a sudden I’ll understand every word! I get excited for a second, before remembering that it’s my first language, so it’s good I understand. Once I answered the house phone, in Spanish, and an American woman on the other end spoke in English to say that she had the wrong number. I don’t know which one of us was actually more confused.

Television

My host mother loves watching TV, or at least having it on in the background. As someone who hasn’t had a television at HPU and who is more inclined to watch sports or a crime series, listening to Ecuadorian telenovelas (soap operas) and infomercials is a big change of pace. Once again, though, it’s great for listening to the language.

Baby laughing/crying

With my almost-2-year old host nephew around the house quite often, I can hear the wonderful laughs suddenly transform into merciless screams, only to change into a quiet giggle. I enjoy hearing his speech development, especially since he learns so quickly. My goal is to not have him surpass my speaking capabilities before I depart.

Birds

I don’t always see the birds, but I can hear them all the time. I asked what one little bird was called, and my host mother told me it was a “pajarito,” literally, little bird. Since then, I’ve just accepted the chirps without further investigation. There is a beautiful hummingbird on campus, however, called a sparkling violetear, which is stunning, even when he almost flies into the back of my head. 

Scents of the Day

Each day, at least once, a scent reaches me that makes me actively think about what I'm smelling. Some of the odors are most pleasant than others, and some are stronger. These are a few that stand out to me, wherever I go throughout my day.

Lilies

This isn't as common anymore, but I used to sit by the lagoon at the university and just smell the lilies. It is my favorite scent in the world, and it served as a wonderful start to my day.

Exhaust fumes

Like any city, and perhaps a bit more, Quito has some major pollution. With the dirt and smoke, the exhaust fumes of the buses are incredibly strong. Although my eyes don't get as red by the end of the day anymore, I still have dirty buggers when I blow my nose at the end of the day. 

Urine

This happens more often in the south part of the city, but it definitely exists. It's a strong scent, which makes the source of it a mystery. I would also like to point out that public bathrooms cost money, with a bit more being charged for toilet paper. (Also, the urinal costs $0.10 whereas the toilet costs $0.15, which is clearly not fair.)

Bakery

I have a weakness for bread, and passing the bakery is my kryptonite, particularly when freshly baked. I've scouted out several bakeries with delicious cinnamon rolls and other various breads, for $0.12 to $0.35 per piece.

Cigarette smoke

I never realized how nice it is that tobacco is not allowed on the HPU campus. The plethora of students and faculty smoking outside buildings means that the scent is everywhere. I'm still not used to it, but it is less of a bother than initially.

Dinner

With chicken and rice most nights, the smell of dinner cooking in the morning and then being reheated at night is wonderful. Even though I check to make sure it really is chicken (rather than cuy--guinea pig), I love the smell and the fact that my host mama makes it just for me each day.

Things that Don't Seem like They Would Work Well on a Bus

Every weekday, I take a big bus (kind of like a modified coach bus) to school in Cumbaya, driving rather quickly in my opinion. On this bus, I generally have a seat because they aren't as busy. On Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, I take another bus through Quito to get to my internship, which almost always requires standing, sometimes crushed against a wall of other people.

There are some things that just don't seem like they would work well on a city bus, particularly at the speeds and turns in which we are partaking, yet they occur on nearly every bus I ride.

Selling a product
This generally occurs on the green bus to Cumbaya. Since we're all seated nicely, it would seem like a decent way to keep our attention while selling some sort of product (kind of like TV infomercials, but in person). However, as you can see from the map (point A to B), this is not a straight route. It is filled with highways and sharp turns. I'm continually impressed by their balance and poise, knowing that I can barely stay in my seat.

Wearing high heels
This is far more of a problem on the Ecovia through Quito, but it still is problematic on the green bus since the bus is gunning it as soon as you are off the street. The ability of these women to balance awes me, as, once again, I can barely keep upright in my sneakers. They don't always (read: ever) look comfortable, however, but I still admire the effort.

Making out
I understand that this is a culture far more accepting of PDA (public displays of affection), but shoving your tongue into someone else's mouth while on a winding road with sudden stops just strikes me as a poor decision. I've bit my own tongue while on the bus, and I would hate to have to worry about someone else's as well.

Holding/Nursing a baby
This clearly is a necessity, but it still must be difficult. The sharp turns and crowded aisles mean that there is even more attention and poise required than usual.

Putting hand in door as it shuts to hold on
This scared me at first. Watching the door slam shut on some guy's hand. Then I realized that the doors don't really seal shut, so it actually serves as another pole or point of contact when there are no other options. Granted, I'm still not trying it, but now I don't feel as bad when I take a spot away from the door.

Putting on make-up
My mother always taught me not to put on make-up in the car. When I drive people, I'm scared if they're applying make-up. Now I'm just happy I'm not the driver. With the number of women curling eyelashes, applying mascara, putting on eyeliner, and filling in eyebrows on the buses, I'm surprised I haven't seen more make-up mishaps or eye injuries.

Clearly, I am just not up to speed with how to utilize my time on the bus. I probably won't make this a priority, but it's still impressive to me.

Official Arrival in Quito

Determined to prove my host mother wrong about me being a social recluse, I decided I had to make an effort to get out of the house this weekend. There hasn’t been anything too adventurous quite yet, but I loved seeing new parts of the city.

On Friday night, I went to a good-bye party for two of the Austrian volunteers at Cenit. Even though I’ve only been there for a couple of weeks, it was a great way to get to know some of the other volunteers while working on my Spanish, since they come from Germany, Austria, Italy, the US and a few other places. Since most of us are close in age, and we are all volunteering abroad (whether in school or not), it really was a fantastic way to start the weekend. I also took my first taxi alone and didn’t get attacked/kidnapped/robbed! Always a plus.

Saturday I went to Otavalo with a group of 8 USFQ students. With another solid taxi ride (only costing $3), we took a $2 bus about two hours away to the picturesque little city of Otavala. Within the city limits is an artisan market every Saturday, with jewelry, art, textiles, clothing and basically everything you could imagine, some targeted towards international tourists, others focused on more general things. With beautiful colors and incredible designs, many of the items are handmade by the sellers or the families of the sellers, which means that the cost drops significantly in the absence of the intermediary. I ended up buying a lightweight woven sweatshirt-equivalent item that I can wear around the house, and then I gave into my vice and purchased two rings, pictured below.

I love markets, and my only defense is to limit the money I bring so that I don’t purchase everything. (My parents can attest to my ability to boost the local economy with market purchases, like when I returned from Guatemala with three hammocks…) After purchasing some delicious chocolate bread from the local bakery, we headed back to Quito.

Bus terminal, with volcano in background

Otavalo

Sunday, I was going to do homework, but that can always be delayed when other opportunities arise! I accompanied my host mother to the home of a leather artisan, who makes beautiful leather purses with Italian leather. His work is incredible, and my host mother custom ordered a black leather purse, for only $85, which is considerably less than any similar purse would be in the States. She first met this artisan thirty years ago and has kept his contact information for the rare occasion that she is in need of a new one. I am seriously pondering my need for a good purse, particularly one where I have met the artisan. We shall see.

After that, we went to a local shopping center and got a pizza. Let’s just say that pizza might not be the strong suit of Ecuador, given the limited cheese options, but it was a nice change of pace.

In the afternoon, we made our way north to la Mitad del Mundo! In case you didn’t make the connection ECUADOR lies on the EQUATOR. Cool, huh? In any case, we drove to the middle of the world, where the latitude measures 0 0’ 0”. (Nearby is an inactive volcano, where you can actually go into the crater, but that’s for another day.) Although we weren’t able to stay for long, I officially saw the equator. Atop the structure, there is a globe on its side, showing the position of the Earth in comparison to the line upon which we stood. My host family informed me that my time in Quito limbo had passed, as I had officially arrived in Quito upon visiting la mitdad del mundo. And so, my adventure really starts!

Southern hemisphere

Standing on the Equator (facing east)

Standing on the Equator (facing west)

The flags of the provinces of Ecuador

The Northern Hemisphere

Patricia and I (my host mama)

My host mama and I 

Music and ice cream

Flags of the provinces and the sierra

The busts of famous Ecuadorians

La mitad del mundo

The mountain ranges at the Equator

La mitad del mundo

Little Victories of Week 3

Made it to toilet both times I puked
I would like to reiterate that this was not drug/alcohol induced vomiting. But I did manage to get to the porcelain both times, which is more than I can say for my experiences in Guatemala and Australia. It really is a big step forward for me.

Successful Completion of First International Relations Assignment
This is my (one of many) bragging moment: I did really well on my first IR assignment, even though I had been late and couldn't go to class on Tuesday. Instead, I spent the class time formatting the short paper, so that the professor wouldn't think I was a complete slacker. Now I at least feel a bit more confident about the class, and hopefully I can keep arriving on time like I managed to do Thursday.

Purchased IR Book for waaaaay less than budgeted
This was extremely exciting because the book was supposed to cost $170. Since there is a finite amount of money, with no added income source, for the semester, I was thrilled to learn that we could get a print of the book for $11.50. That might have been a highlight of my day, just because it means I have more funds for excursions than I had originally planned!

Got Empadronamiento
This basically means that my visa is registered, and that I won't get a $400 fine. Yayy!

Re-established my Love of Bread
Apparently, somehow my host mother had determined that I disliked bread. Today I told her about going to some of the different panaderías on my way to and from class and volunteering, and she was so surprised! She is happy to have another food that I'll eat, which means that my love of bread can continue even in the house.

Motivated to Make Plans
After my host mother developed the idea that I was a depressed, social reject without friends, she started to take it upon herself to find other international students who would accept me as a social project to go out on the town. While this has benefits, I decided it would probably be better to just get going myself and put her worrying at ease. Therefore, I'm now actively motivated to make plans, rather than waiting for something else to show up. Tomorrow I head to Otavalo for the day, on the first of  (hopefully) many weekend adventures!

Questions about Quito

My dad and Gram asked me a few questions about Quito as a whole in comparison to what I know, so here's my shot at trying to explain the city and my spot within it.

Quito is your basic city. It has malls, supermarkets, restaurants holes-in-the-wall, public transportation, good parts, dangerous parts. With a population of somewhere around 2 million, it’s a concentrated center of activity. The buses through the city are often full, to the point where the doors swinging closed often help to compact the last few passengers to that everyone is inside the bus. If I manage to get one of the few coveted seats, the goal is to avoid all eye contact unless there is a sighting of a pregnant woman, a woman with a child or a really old or injured person.

I haven’t done much shopping, but I pass by plenty of shops on my way to the university or to my internship. For the most part, I haven’t seen an excess of US chain stores, which is kind of a relief. I pass by quite a few KFCs, and I can recall one McDonald’s, but, other than that, there aren’t many American companies stationed here that I’ve noticed. As I spend more time exploring the city, this could change, but I kind of like seeing different places or chains.

There are shopping centers, which so far have overwhelmed me with their sheer number of stores. A couple of the big malls even have a “play zone” with rides and games, which comes in handy when distracting a small child from a toy store.

I’ve only been to the supermarket once. Although it’s clear that American brands cost more, there are plenty of other brands from Andean countries that are more affordable. Of course, an interesting section to visit is the meat counter, where cow tongues and livers are far more available (and perhaps cuy, though I didn’t investigate that too much. I can only picture the guinea pigs from the G-Force movie…).

There are also the fresh markets, which have a variety of fruits and vegetables, and the big market, which basically has anything you could want, from shoes to phones to washers (kind of like a more organized and new-er flea market set-up, if you need a comparison). The markets are fun because of the mixture of items, but it takes a lot of energy to barter and to make your way through the maze!

Cash is the widely accepted method of payment, particularly in the markets and smaller stores. Cash is easier to work with, as long as you have the appropriate smaller bill denominations. It’s also important to keep track of your purse to avoid having any of it taken, just as you’d have to be careful in any big market. Credit cards are accepted in some places (like supermarkets or stores in the mall) for larger purchases, but they seem to be more of a hassle. ATMs are available to withdraw funds, but you have to be super careful about how much you withdraw and from where, since there have been incidences where people (Ecuadorians and internationalers alike) have been followed after making a cash withdrawal and robbed. Basically, you just have to be smart and aware of what is going on around you.

As for being a (relatively) tall blonde pale girl walking around the city, it’s not really that weird. I mean, I stand out, that’s a given. I am generally in the top 10% of tallest people on the bus. But as a growing international city, Quito has its fair share of people who don’t quite seem to fit in. It still requires being careful, to avoid being followed, but a solid combination of confidence, awareness and reasonability can help to minimize the risk. There are also the other 150 international students at USFQ, the majority from the US, but also from places like Puerto Rice, Spain, Germany, Singapore, Japan, Canada, Italy, and Australia.

I’m in a city, with risks and adventures like other cities. It’s not an isolated part of the globe, nor is it a giant metropolis with representatives from every country of the world. There aren’t as many skyscrapers in the middle of the city, nor does it have abundant parking lots available above ground. The city has a unique feeling, perhaps because I don’t have many cities with which I can compare it. Even with the evident pollution and the sometimes distracting trash, Quito has a beauty. 

Remember the Little Things

When planning for a trip, you can generally find packing suggestions, day trip recommendations, and little tricks people have picked up along the way. No matter what information there might be, it’s clear that there are some things that slip my under the radar, and, whether they were mentioned or not, such items are now absent or scarce. In my couple weeks here, these are the things I’m realizing I probably should have thought about more thoroughly:

Coins

I just don’t think about this as often. In the States, I generally do not carry around an excess of coins, and I dislike dollar coins. So when they told me to bring smaller denominations, I thought of $10s and $5s. Luckily I brought a couple rolls of quarters and dollar coins, because I would otherwise be SoL. Bills work, but the general preference is for coins under five dollars. The change will be in coins, and the paper bills quickly seem like a nuisance. In the future, when they suggest small denominations, ask how small.

Water bottle

I am going to have to just buy a solid re-useable one. I should have brought one, but I figured it would be easier to find a semi-solid one here. The benefit of a water bottle is that you have portable water! This is quite useful anywhere, but particularly at an altitude of 9 000 feet above sea level at the equator.

            Side suggestion: Bring drink powders, or buy some. Water is great, but after a point, it gets to be boring. Particularly when it is completely filtered and plain water (sorry, Colorado water snob coming through), it can be difficult to convince yourself to drink enough water. If you have to, bring some sort of flavoring or water enhancement just to make it more interesting. Besides, maybe then you’ll clean the water bottle sometimes.

Sweats and sweatshirt

I always forget that I spend time at the house or relaxing as well. For some reason, I decided not to bring sweats or an extra sweatshirt. It didn’t occur to me that it gets cold in Quito at night, and that sweats would be acceptable while hanging around after classes. Whoops.

Sunscreen

I brought sunscreen, but I clearly underestimated the need for it. With a powerful sun even in the winter, burns are a huge problem. I’m using what I have, and then I will have to break down and fork over the cash for more so that I can avoid a major burn.

Towels/Washcloth

This was just me having a mental lapse. I had talked to one former student who said that the family generally had towels and washcloths for the student to use. But then I forgot to confirm this with my host family! I remembered a beach towel and a small washcloth for small trips, so my home towel is now a cute pink monkey towel for the next four months.

Slippers

I don’t wear slippers. I usually even end up taking off my shoes to walk around campus outside. I am readjusting to shoes, and I really wish I’d accepted the slipper suggestion. My host mom doesn’t want me walking around the apartment barefoot or in socks, so I usually have on my flip flops with my fuzzy socks. This isn’t comfy, and even my two year old host nephew gives me the once over with a disgusted look on his face, but at least it keeps my feet a bit warmer.

Even without a few of these forgotten items, I'm loving where I am. I'm starting to understand more about the city and about myself within the environment, since I am still adjusting to a city at all. I'm more confident about the bus rides, more sure of myself when walking in the streets, and more aware of what's going on around me. I've learned that I like company when I'm walking around, if only for the sense of security and the friend with whom I can share the experience. After a long time of simply wanting to be alone, I'm realizing that I actually love the company when traveling because I can share their worries and their curiosity to see a new part of the country, having a new experience that constitutes an adventure in and of itself. I'm not always good at remembering that, but it's certainly improved so far!

3 Continents!

Not to brag, or anything, but I've now puked on three continents, in four distinct countries, and in both southern and northern hemispheres. And to answer your question, never has it been due to alcohol/drug consumption. I would also like to brag that this time I made it to a toilet, which I've only done one internationally (Tikal, Guatemala), instead of the crosswalk (Brisbane, Australia), outside the compound (Chuisicaba II, Guatemala), out/in a car (US). 

It doesn't seem to be food poisoning, or bad water (my host mama is a wonderful cook and takes great care of me!); I just sometimes get sick. I've been forced to drink oregano tea with lime, no the best, but apparently good for the stomach. Luckily, my host mama has instructed me to rest for the weekend, which I will do with gusto (while also doing my homework).

The Little Victories of Week 2

Officially started (and loved) internship

I have completed my first week at CENIT. We are still working on the fundraising campaign (feel free to donate here), and I’m also working on developing the case statement for the organization and for the programs. Hopefully we’re able to get things moving on the financial front to work on the internal needs of the organization.

Got through mini-breakdown successfully

Almost every trip or major move, I have a breakdown a couple days before leaving and another about a week and a half into the adventure (save for Kansas; that one went smoothly). It’s a collection of nerves, culture shock, frustration, and exhaustion, but it usually passes quickly. This time all it took was a talk with some sweet friends and a good night’s rest for me to feel better once more.

Started to meet people

This one is still in progress, but I am getting better at reaching out to people, especially now that I have the internship companions. Unless I’m living with people or being forced to spend inordinate amount of time with them in collaboration with a mutual energy focal point (i.e. middle schoolers), I don’t make friends easily. I’m working on it, but I feel good so far.

Started visa registration process

My schedule didn’t exactly figure out a way to incorporate the time consuming process of registering my visa, but I made it to the Extranjería this week, and I’ll be able to pick up my Empadronamiento next week so that I can avoid a $200 fine.

Completed (Semi-) Successful Presentation in Spanish Conversation Class

I gave my first presentation to my Español para extranjeros class (basically the ESL equivalent). It seemed to go pretty well, as far as I could tell, even though I managed to incorrectly define and/or misspell a few of the words from the vocabulary sheet I had to prepare for the class. Oh well, baby steps!

Signed up for trip to Tiputini Biodiversity Station for birthday weekend

Some people want to go bar-hopping for their 21^st birthday, some want to jump on a plane to Vegas, and other want to just party. As for my 21^st birthday, the first weekend of March, I’ll be spending it at the Tiputini Biodiversity Station in the Ecuadorian Amazons in the eastern part of the country! It takes 6 hours to travel there from USFQ, but the collection of wildlife and opportunities to see so many new things is completely worth it.

Let the Internship Commence!

I started Monday at my internship in the south part of Quito. It's in a kind of sketchy neighborhood, so I don't bring anything other than my bus fare so I can get home. I'm volunteering at CENIT (Centro de la niña trabajadora), a nonprofit, nongovernmental organization that focuses on improving the lives of working children and their families. 

In addition to education and job training, CENIT provides health and social services, nutrition programs, psychological help, and recreation for children whose limited economic means or troublesome behavior has prevented them from integrating in a traditional classroom setting. 

As a Nonprofit Leadership & Management major (NPL) (yes, that is a real major), I dabble in studies about the nonprofit sector as a whole, fundraising, program evaluation, volunteerism, counseling, and leadership. 

After deciding that I wanted to complete my internship while abroad, I started to look for an organization with which I could volunteer in a specific role during my four and half months abroad. I found CENIT online, then heard about a short-term volunteer experience there from a lovely young lady I with whom I worked in Kansas this summer, so I pursued the volunteer coordinator in an attempt to earn a position. Luckily, it worked out perfectly, and I can spend my MWF afternoons there.

Even though I have to take an hour long bus ride (which is even less comfortable than it sounds) to get to the south, I have loved the internship so far. I'm helping the organization to develop a long term fundraising strategy as well as help with the immediate need of short term fundraising to avoid dissolution by the government. (Btw, if you want to help, you can donate online at the current campaign web site. It all helps!)

I am looking forward to my semester with CENIT because it combines both of my majors in a way that actually shows me how such an organization works. I am so excited to have such a unique and incredible opportunity, so please let me know if you have any questions about it or want to know more! 

A Suburban Gringa on the Bus

It's not a secret: I’m a girl of the suburbs, through and through. Not exactly the identical houses and gated community suburbs, but the suburbs nonetheless. Given that little tidbit, my time in Quito is my first real experience in a city for an extended period of time and, therefore, my first real experience with public transportation. I've generally had access to an individual vehicle of some sort, whether driven by parent, relative or neighbor, in a place with relatively predicable traffic patterns. I could leave at pretty much the same time each day without worrying about my arrival time. Well, now things have changed, and I've realized a few things about and around bus travel in Quito.

There is no schedule.

I don’t think I fully comprehended the reality of this fact. The HPU trolley has a schedule, the RTD has a schedule, the Underground has a schedule. The buses of Quito, regardless of type or destination, do not have a schedule. In general, they start when it’s light and stop running when it gets dark, around 7pm. Luckily there are a lot of buses running each route, so there’s generally a bus nearby when I need it. However, this can also cause a buildup of buses around the same stop, leaving another stop with no bus in sight. Generally, it works out in my favor, though, so I can’t complain.

Priority seating is for pregnant women, not just overweight women who appear to be have the shape of pregnant women.

The picture showing who received priority seating makes this very clear. Rather than the side silhouette of a figure in a dress with a protruding stomach region, the sign on the bus illustrates the forward silhouette of a woman with a hole in her stomach where there is a baby, sometimes attached by an umbilical cord. This does bring up the Dave Barry question as to when one should ask if a woman is pregnant (never). I’m just going to hope she tells me the truth.

Traffic sucks.

We all know traffic is awful, but traffic in a bus sucks because the vehicle is not exactly easily maneuverable. I missed my first class on Tuesday morning because the bus was stuck in traffic due to construction and couldn't weave around like the motorcycles. This is part of the reason for no schedule, I suppose.

Turning right from the left lane and turning left from the middle lane are acceptable if you drive a bus.

One of the buses I take to the south part of the city for my internship has a special center lane dedicated to it. This means that there are also special lights that say “B” to indicate when the buses can turn right, in front of the other traffic that is still going straight. On the other hand, if you are turning left, but the turn lane is pretty full, it is acceptable to drive past the turn lane in the middle lane, then turn in front of all of the people waiting in the turn lane.

Going around a sharp-ish curve is more interesting if you line up multiple large vehicles.

That loop going to the highway? There are two lanes for a reason, and, if you know what you’re doing, and if you honk to announce your presence (see next point), two full size buses can turn simultaneously while lined up next to each other. This isn’t always a matter of passing the other bus, but rather completing your route more quickly, thus earning more money (as far as I can tell). The emphasis is on efficiency, and sometimes this requires interesting situations of large vehicles very close to one another.

Sometimes honking is the only way to convey your message.

If someone is not stopping in time, honk. If a pedestrian is in your way, honk. If it looks like someone is going to cross the street in front of you, honk. If you want to make your presence known, honk. To be clear, this isn’t an angry honk (most of the time). The little beeps are just friendly reminders of the multi-ton vehicle heading in your direction. There are, of course, angry extended honks, often accompanied by screeching tires and more honking.

Sit near the front, on the aisle.

Not only is the front of the bus nice because you can see your stop, but you are also more visible to others, making someone with a knife less likely to bother you. I’m a fan of not being bothered by my knife wielding bus companions, so I like the front of the bus. It’s also a good plan to sit on the aisle, therefore controlling who can sit next to you. By avoiding eye-contact with anyone other than the sweet old woman whose knees I could probably snap, the gringo I recognize from the university, or another young woman holding onto her purse with caution, I can usually avoid uncomfortable bus rides.

The guy standing by the ditch is not admiring the view of the open space.

Sometimes, nature calls and you just can’t make it to a traditional restroom. Although the alternative is hopefully a tree or a bush, there are times when you simply cannot find a place to hide. This means that the ditch on the side of the road looks really good, even if it is in the city.

Some graffiti is helpful, some is political, some is just…graffiti.

I have seen hastily written advertisements for a “safe abortion” sprayed on bridge walls, political slogans and promises on the corners, murals on the wall near the bus stop. All is graffiti, but the purpose of each is different. Whether spreading messages of support, presence, or threat, the graffiti can serve a purpose to the artist or the community; sometimes, however, it really is just obnoxious.

At times, the only thing to do is watch and listen.

You can’t make the bus go faster, you won’t arrive any earlier, and no matter how long you stare at the seat-back in front of you, it is not going to do anything interesting. Take the time to people watch or to admire the view as you descend into the valley. If you can’t be doing something that you would deem actively productive, do something that will at least give your mind a chance to explore your surroundings.

International Students' Welcome Party

Let's just take a moment to compare the welcome parties for students, as I'm sure this is somehow an important part of understanding the culture.

At my home university, for new students, they throw a little Barefoot Luau, encouraging students to participate and get to know each other poolside for a few hours, serving "mocktails," soda, and water to demonstrate ways to participate without alcohol.

Here, we went to a rather isolated hacienda in Nono, Quito, and played games (which included optional alcohol), ate, and danced. After a ten minute hike to the hacienda, we arrived a little after 10am. Although no alcohol was mandatory or suggested, the availability was quite different from the States.

Nono, Ecuador: The view from the hacienda

The first game involved a greased wooden pole, with prizes strung to the top. The goal was to climb the pole, which resulted in my team building a human tower tower of three (myself in the middle). The next group used extra team work, with a base of four and building up from there.

A student trying to climb alone

Our team, building a tower (I'm in black)

This is far more difficult than it seems.

There's also a person below me.

In an effort to not fall off the pole, she fell on me.

Few of us had thought far enough ahead to
figure out how to get back down

The final group, with extra effort

Four tiers of students

The next event was dizzy bat, followed by an obstacle course. Oh, this was no ordinary obstacle course! To start, take a (optional) shot of booze, followed by the tire run like football players, followed by another optional shot, followed by an army crawl, followed by another optional shot, finishing with a giant slip'n'slide. Despite the chilly weather and the constant mist, many of us dove down the soapy slide without a second thought.

Army crawl

Makeshift slip'n'slide

Obstacle course competitors. It's not warmer that it looks.

After the games, we had a delicious lunch, full of food that involved potatoes (my favorite). Then we did a bit of dancing before making the ride back to Quito.

A bit different from the welcome party back home, don't you think?

The Little Victories of Week 1

Answering the telephone in Spanish and having a brief conversation
It was just a brief conversation, but I successfully answered the home phone while alone and relayed the message that my host-mama was already at work. Now I just have to prepare myself for detailed conversations on the cell phone, That is, if I ever figure out my phone number to give people.

Taking correct bus to and from USFQ alone
The is one bus that I'm not supposed to take because it goes the wrong way. So Far, I've managed to take the correct bus to and from university, not getting myself lost in the city.
*Bonus: Not getting robbed in first week
I'm going to try to keep this trend going. I like not having my stuff taken from me. As we all know, I don't share well. Then again, I also dislike conflict, so I'd probably just hand my stuff over.

Waking up before 9am
This doesn't seem like a major feat, but for someone who has only ever had gym classes before 9am, it's tough. I'm not a morning person, but I'm adapting. I'm able to get ready quickly, and the chilly morning air keeps me moving.

Knowing where my classes are located
With buildings names things like Einstein, Galileo, da Vinci and Newton, all connected by various hallways and terraces, some only being differentiated as different wings of the same building, it feels good to have a general sense of where I am or where I am supposed to be. I still get lost, but at least the different entrances and exits of the buildings allows me to inconspicuously sneak back to where I am supposed to be.

Wearing pants multiple times before washing them because I didn't spill food and/or fall in mud
This is really key. I cannot adequately express how proud I am of this so far, with a limited supply of pants available in my closet. I tend to spill or trip, making it necessary to wash the pants before further use to remain socially appropriate. So far, it's been great to still have the pants look decent at the end of the day.

Making friends with my host nephew
The year and a half old son of my host sister generally dislikes everyone. He barely tolerates the attention from his cousins. That being said, he and I are pretty much best buds. He learned my name in less than a day (a name that isn't exactly popular in Spanish speaking countries), and he talks with me all the time. The most important words and phrases in his life include "carro," "pollo," "se cayó," and "zapatos," meaning car, chicken, it fell, and shoes respectively. Together we read Toy Story books and discuss the movie Cars.
Further bragging moment: He refused to smile for photo with his cousin yesterday, but immediately smiled when I took our picture.

Adrián and me

Presidential Candidate Speech

The presidential election will be held in February of this year. Although few people seem to think the opposing candidates have a chance to win against the incumbent, it is still interesting ot see the developments. When I went to the Centro Histórico on Sunday, there was a small protest. (Rest assured, I won’t be protesting, given that it’s illegal for international visitors to do so.) On Wednesday at USFQ, one of the presidential candidates was giving a speech. I had the chance to listen to what he was saying, thought I didn’t quite understand it all.

The CREO candidate, Guillermo Lasso, spoke at USFQ to tell about himself and to respond to some questions about his positions on certain issues. One thing that stood out to me initially and that he emphasized was his lack of a university degree. This is very different from the backgrounds of most US candidates for office. Another difference was his background as a banker, without extensive political experience or knowledge. Now clearly, part of this difference arises from the difference in expectations of a candidate and in what appeals to the populace.

As a candidate, a friend and I realized that Lasso has a very conservative platform. In addition to opposing abortion and same-sex marriage with reference to his Catholic heritage, Lasso proposes a significant cut in taxes and tariffs, with private entities entering the country to increase market output and to decrease the oil reliance of the country. Listening to the views of this candidate made me realize the distinctions between each of the approximately eight candidates, as must occur for a multi-party system, to distinguish themselves from their opponents.

However, upon asking my host-mother about the elections, she indicated that many of the candidates only run with hopes of power and money. Although this happens on some level in the US as well, it seems to be more prevalent in Ecuador, creating a certain sense of frustration about the process. This was also evident in the responses of some of the students along the edges of the speech, as they quietly expressed doubt about some of the promises and proposals of the candidate. 

Hopefully I’ll be able to understand the system a bit, with the help of my Temas de América Latina class. In addition, I'll be interested in following the  developments in Venezuela, trying to keep in mind both a US and an Ecuador perspective.

Family and Home

I wanted to live with a host family to improve my language skills and to learn more about the culture; this was also the only option for my program, so that helped me make my decision. I’m living with a middle-aged woman in an apartment on the 5^th or 6^th floor of a complex in the north part of Quito. She has four children, all fully grown. One daughter lives in our building, pretty much across the hall. Another just moved out a couple weeks ago, to another building in the complex, with her son, who is less than two years old. As an aside, he just started speaking when they moved, and he knows my name, and we read Toy Story books together. 

Chiquita, the toy-poodle-esque guard dog of the house

The apartment consists of a kitchen (also the laundry room), three bedrooms, a living space, and 1.5 bathrooms. The benefit of a small place is that I don’t have to worry about much, and I don’t feel out of place. It is a quiet space, and the view from my window is beautiful. I have unpacked everything. Slowly but surely, I’m starting to settle in, accompanied by my stuffed chameleon, who travels with me.

Kitchen

Living Room

My Room

View of North Quito from my room

The apartment is only one block from my bus station, and I need only take one bus to get to the university. This is a time when I am so happy I don’t get car sick. Although the roads are better paved than some I’ve been on in Guatemala and Sierra Leone, there are a lot of turns and winding roads as we go to the valley of Cumbayá. Also, yes, that is the real name, and, yes, I do sometimes get the campfire/church song stuck in my head.

I am definitely lucky to have spent time in Denver before leaving for here because the altitude change has affected me much less than some other students. Although I still have some headaches, and I can get winded running up the stairs to the apartment, I feel pretty good. I really think we need a baseball team here, just to see how far the home runs can go in the thin air. The air is dry, but it is supposed to start the rainier season soon, so the humidity will increase a bit. Because of the altitude, the sun is much stronger, meaning I have to remember sunscreen regularly, to not look like a tomato gringa.

Orientation and Classes

Eight hours of orientation to a new place is more exciting than it might seem. After confirming that orientation was in fact Tuesday (not Monday, as I had thought), I finally had a chance to explore the grounds of the University. As far as I can tell, USFQ is kind of like the Ecuadorian equivalent to HPU. The campus is beautiful, the school is young and still developing their educative system, and the president is lively and personable, encouraging us to learn beyond the classroom as well.

As for presentations on our safety while in Ecuador, we heard from a former Special Forces individual who now works with the Diplomatic Security Service, and then from a former PeaceCorps member who has lived in Ecuador for the past 12 years. Needless to say, their views were quite different. Before the presentations, a USFQ student told us that he had heard the DSS speech last year and had left feeling terrified to live in the place where he’d grown up; so, he encouraged us to listen but to take it with a grain of salt. The DSS agent’s entire job is essentially to focus on security and threats in Quito. As someone who is generally uptight and freaked out about everything that could go wrong, even I realized how ridiculous it would be to follow all of those guidelines throughout the semester.

While there are obvious benefits to knowing which taxis are more secure (read: less likely to rob you), it’s also necessary to point out that taking a perfect taxi everyday just is not going to happen, mostly because the bus is far cheaper and more convenient. Sure, there’s a chance I’ll get pick-pocketed or robbed, but, as I see it, were I to take a cab, I’d lose that money anyhow. I’ll have to be careful, of course, but I’m starting to learn that I won’t get anywhere if I’m timid. While on the bus, I stand out. A lot. Being on the tall end of the average height for Ecuadorian males and having blonde hair and blue eyes, I don’t blend in with the crowd, so I have to keep hold of my belongings. It definitely helps to understand and speak a decent amount of Spanish, and my confidence with that should build throughout the semester.

We also heard from the president of the university (whose style of speaking and ideology is eerily similar to that of the president of my university) and the director of the Galapagos Island site and the Tiputini Biodiversity Station. I really hope I have a chance to visit the research station in the lowlands, so I’ll have to follow up on that opportunity.

In the mean time, I suppose I’ll have to go to my classes. I’ll be taking Temas de América Latina, to learn about Latin American politics and contemporary issues; Conversación avanzada, to improve my Spanish speaking skills; Introducción a relaciones internacionales, to examine international relations from a non-US perspective; and Antropología Andina, to…well, I have no idea, but I’ll learn something interesting. I’ll also be receiving credit for my internship, which will entail 160 on-site hours working with the administration of a local NGO, where I start next Monday.